(excerpts from this this fine free tomato growers ebook - click here to download)

SELECTION OF SOIL

The tomato is not at all choice in the kind of soil in which it grows; in
fact, almost any well-drained soil can be made to produce good
tomatoes. However, for early ripening, it shows a preference for a
light, loamy soil; and, if very early tomatoes are desired, the soil must
be only moderately rich, as a highly fertile soil produces large vines
and more fruit, which is likely to delay ripening of the tomatoes.

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL

It is most essential that the ground be spaded or plowed up very
deep, harrowed and replowed if necessary, until every large clog is
marshed, and the ground is fine and mellow.
Do not plant tomatoes on land that has had white potatoes, melons,
or tomatoes on it the year previous. Indeed, it is best to let the land
rest from these crops three or four years, as all of them are subject to
the same blight disease.

FERTILIZERS

It is a mistake to think that the tomato does not like a rich soil.
Indeed, to have the best tomatoes, the soil must be rich. The plant is
very partial to a soil full of well rotted vegetable matter; hence, we
recommend the following fertilizers, based upon experiments carried
out here on the Experiment Station grounds, which gave excellent
results:

Two loads of leaves from the forest and muck from the swamp were
spread over the bottom of a pen; then one load of barnyard manure.
This was continued until the pen was full, and rounded over at the
top like a potato hill, so as to prevent the excess of water from
washing out the fertilizing constituents. To this heap old rags, plaster,
lime, paper, wood-ashes, finely beaten up bones, etc., can be
advantageously added.

Make this compost heap in the fall so it will be well rotted by spring.

STARTING THE TOMATO PLANT

In the northern part of West Virginia and in the higher altitudes the
tomato seed should be sown from the first to the fifteenth of March,
but in the southern part and along the Ohio and Kanawha Rivers the
seed may be sown as early as February fifteenth.

The best method of starting the plants is by use of a hotbed. It may
be constructed as follows: Select a well-drained location where the
bed will be sheltered, preferably on the south side of a building or
fence. Dig a pit 3 feet wide by 6 feet long and 2 feet deep, so that the
long side faces the south. Line the inside of the pit with boards. A
stake may be driven in at each corner to serve as a support for the
frame, if boards cannot be obtained for the lining. Fill the pit with
fresh horse manure well packed down by tramping. Construct a
frame 3 feet wide by six feet long. Have this frame 12 inches high at
back or north side and 6 inches high at the front or south side. Place
the frame over the pit and bank the outside with strawy manure or
soil.

Place in the frame four or five inches of good garden loam which has
not grown any diseased plants. Cover the bed with glass hot-bed
sash. Unbleached muslin or cheesecloth may be substituted for the
glass.

The fresh horse manure is used to furnish heat for the plants. No
seed should be planted until the temperature of the soil falls to 80
degrees F.

If a crop of tomatoes for early market is desired, transplanting is
necessary. In this case use two or three rows across the end of the
hotbed for sowing the seed, and use the remainder of the bed for
transplanting.

Mark off rows from three to six inches apart and one-fourth inch
deep. Drill in the tomato seed, about 12 seeds to the inch. Level the
soil and press the surface of the bed firmly and uniformly. Moisten
the ground thoroughly.

During summer days ventilate by raising the cover a few inches on
the side opposite the wind. Toward evening close the sash in order
to get the bed warm before night. As the plants grow older the
ventilation may be increased. Water in the mornings on bright days
only. Keep the bed moist but not wet. Ventilate after watering in order
to dry off the plants.

When the seedlings are about two inches high, or just before the
second leaves set, transplant them two inches apart each way to
another part of the bed. Another transplanting four inches apart
should be made in about three weeks. If there is no remaining space
in the hotbed, a cold frame, constructed similar to the hotbed except
that no pit or manure is necessary, may be used. The seedlings may
be transplanted to small boxes or flats about 18 inches long, 12
inches wide, and 2 1/2 inches deep and then the boxes placed in the
hotbed or the cold frame.

If the tomatoes are to be canned, principally, it is not necessary to
hasten the maturing of all the plants. In that case the hotbed may be
used without any transplanting. Mark off rows four inches apart and
one-fourth inch deep. Place one seed every two inches in the row
and then transplant every other seedling to another part of the
hotbed or place the seeds at distances of four inches and do not
transplant. Allow these to grow as they stand, until ready for the field.
Before the seedlings are set in the garden plot they should be
hardened off by a scant supply of water for several days and by the
absence of any covering at night, when there is no danger of frost.
Moisten well just before transplanting.

to be continued…