(excerpts from this this fine free tomato growers ebook - click here to download)

STARTING THE SEED

For a family garden, saw an ordinary cracker-box in two so that it will
not be more than six or seven inches deep; nearly fill with good, rich
earth; sow the seed; sift earth over them until well covered; water
thoroughly, and set in a sunny window. They will soon come up and
grow off rapidly. Set out doors on warm days to make them hardy,
strong, and stalky.

For a later planting sow out of doors, in this latitude about April 15th.

SETTING THE PLANTS

Lay off rows with a middle-burster or two-horse plow; put well rotted
compost in drill at the rate of 25 tons to the acre; bed upon it lightly,
and set the tomatoes directly upon it. Where a chemical fertilizer
is used aim at the following:

Cottonseed meal ————800 lbs.
Acid phosphate ————–850 lbs.
Nitrate of soda ————— 50 lbs.

The nitrate of soda to be applied as a top dressing. Just as the
tomatoes begin to set, 250 pounds of muriate of potash is desirable,
but at present it is out of the question. For this reason I strongly urge
the compost.

SELECTION OF VARIETIES

Every year adds to the long list of varieties of the tomato. With many
of these so-called varieties there is a distinction with but little or no
difference.

The following varieties have done exceedingly well here on our trial
grounds:

EXTRA EARLY VARIETIES:

Spark’s Earliana, June Pink, Burpee’s Earliest Pink, John Baer,
Prosperity, Bolgian’s I. X. L., and Chalk’s Early Jewel.

MID-SUMMER VARIETIES:

My Maryland, Greater Baltimore, Dwarf Champion, and New Stone.

LATE VARIETIES:

Red Rock, Acme, Livingstone’s Stone.

CULTIVATION

Tomatoes like the soil about them kept loose and mellow by frequent
hoeings, and at no time must they be allowed to become weedy, as
weeds greatly injure the plants. A little commercial fertilizer or a quart
of compost dug in around the vines once per month will give finer
tomatoes and prolong the life of the vines.

Caution-Do not use fresh or unrotted manure, as it encourages
diseases of various kinds.

PRUNING

When extra early tomatoes are desired it is important that the pruning
be done properly.

+ Train the vine to one or two stalks.
+ Tie to stakes well sharpened and driven into the earth. Tie the
vines securely to these stakes at frequent intervals.
+ Keep growing vigorously until the lower fruit is half grown; then
cut off the top just above the larger fruit. This will cause the
fruit to ripen several days earlier than if the top was left on.

It is important to note that, as a rule, 90 per cent of the tomatoes
grow within 18 or 20 inches of the ground, although the vines grow
much taller; hence, the wisdom of pruning.

ROOTING CUTTINGS

In this locality July and August are the best time to root tomato
cuttings. The tops and suckers will root readily if inserted in boxes of
moist sand or moist shady places. The cutting should be 3 or 4
inches in length. Keep well watered, and they will be nicely rooted in
about 9 days, when they should be taken up and set the same as for
seedlings. They will begin bearing almost as soon as they begin
growing well. They are preferable to seedlings.

In making the cuttings half of each large leaf should be taken off.

EXTENDING THE SEASON

Method No. 1.—Just before the first frost, pick the large, well
developed green tomatoes, and place them side by side in a cool,
dry place. Do not let them touch each other. Care must also be taken
not to bruise them. Straw or dry leaves can be placed in a cold
frame, and the bed filled with them.

Method No. 2.—Pull up the whole vine, fruit and all; hang the vines
top-downward in a cool, dry place. In this way, nice ripe tomatoes
can be had until Christmas, New Year, or even later.

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