Archive for February, 2009
February 26, 2009 at 4:33 pm · Filed under Lawn
A watering can sounds like such a simple device that one wonders how there can be any difficulty in picking one. But, thanks to the ingenuity of contemporary designers, there are a dozen varieties. One may suit your needs better than another.
Consider the weight. Water weighs about 8 lbs (3.6kg) per gallon (~4 liters). If the watering can itself weighs a pound that’s over 12% of the total if you’re dispensing a gallon. Why add the extra weight? Plastic containers today are strong, rust-proof and come in a variety of attractive styles.
They may or may not have all the features you want, though.
It can be handy to have a detachable rose (that’s the part on the end of the nozzle with tiny holes through which the water pours). Sometimes you want to rain gently on the plants, other times you want to deliver a gusher in a short time. That means either having two different styles, or choosing one with a changeable rose.
It’s more common to find that feature with metal watering cans, but plastic ones that provide it do exist.
Size is related to weight, and also to your ability to handle it easily. A large can may hold two or three gallons but that’s 16 or 24 lbs, plus the weight of the can. That’s a lot of container to carry around just to water a few houseplants. Even when filled with less water, the can may be bulky and awkward.
If you get a smaller can, and there’s no rule that says you must have only one, watering those indoor plants becomes quick and easy. Having watering cans in three sizes will cover the complete range of jobs you can expect to use it for.
Small bonsai, for example, can get by on very little water. In fact, overwatering is one of the most common ways novice gardeners hurt their plant. Medium-sized plants, such as an orange tree in a pot, can use all the water you can give it, provided there’s good drainage. For that a larger watering can is better.
For those large, outdoor jobs you can often use a hose. But hoses are heavy and inconvenient to drag around and reel up again. Also, if you have a large yard, there may be places the hose won’t go. Having a larger watering can for those big jobs makes life easy.
You may have gardens that aren’t easy to plumb for a soaker hose system. A large watering can solves that problem, too. When the rains don’t accommodate your plants’ needs, you just dump three gallons of water around the base of the plants. If you have good soil, that retains enough but drains properly, the larger cans will deliver plenty.
Whichever type you buy, be sure not to let water sit in for long. That encourages the growth of bacteria that can be harmful to pets, people and plants. It also gives mosquitoes a good place to breed. Letting it stand overnight, to allow for evaporation of chlorine is good, but a week is too long.
February 26, 2009 at 4:23 pm · Filed under Lawn
Shears are among the most versatile tools for lawn and garden care. Though similar to garden scissors, they differ in several important ways - ways that make life easier for home lawn care workers. Ordinary scissors produce a shearing force by holding material between two hard, sharp edges. That’s where shears get their name. But a modification of this scheme results in a tool called ‘bypass shears’.
Bypass shears have blades that are designed to bypass each other, applying a shearing force as the cutting edges move past one another. They come in a dozen varieties, each with its own ideal use.
The largest type are grass or hedge shears. Very long-handled, they provide a long cutting surface to cut the maximum amount of material in one clamping.
Long blade shears are most like heavy duty scissors, about 8 inches total, often having rubberized grips around the straight handles for easy grabbing. Perfect for snipping flowers or fruit.
Pruning shears, by contrast, typically have two moon-shaped blades, one with a convex crescent, the other concave. The enlarged-oval handles and the blade design allow the user to apply a large force, needed for cutting the woody stems of herbs and small fruit tree branches. A variation has a set of circular, saw-toothed, metal blades that are great for grabbing or cutting larger branches.
Either long blade or pruning shears are often complemented by a handy spring and latch mechanism. The spring separates the blades when the user eases pressure on the handles, saving him or her the effort of opening the blades when wearing gloves. The latch is there to keep them clamped shut, and the blades together, when stored away. That added safety feature has a side-benefit: it makes them easy to hang on a hook.
Garden scissors are sometimes confused with shears, but they have very large open handles and shorter straight blades. They’re used not for pruning, but for cutting twine, opening packages, cutting weed cloth, etc. An ordinary pair of house scissors could do the job in a pinch, but garden scissors are typically stronger and more durable. The blades are very tough and sharpen up well.
Though we often look on these tools as ‘merely’ useful, which they are, our ancestors regarded them as highly prized possessions. Often referred to today as ‘ordinary garden tools’, two hundred years ago they would have been worth a great deal.
But one thing is still true today that was true then. A good pair of shears, properly maintained, can last for 20 years or more. Tempered, forged steel, an adjustable screw to tighten loose blades and high quality plastic or rubberized grips that last are all essential. Look for quality, spend a little more and you’ll be rewarded with a generation’s worth of value.
February 26, 2009 at 4:22 pm · Filed under Lawn
Having an array of lawn and garden tools is a must for proper care. But no matter how many hoes, shears or shovels you have one thing remains true: lawn care uses chemicals.
Those chemicals may be in the modern form of commercially manufactured fertilizers, pesticides and weed killers. Or they may be ‘organic’ (a misleading term, since nearly all artificially produced chemicals are organic compounds as well. But in either case, they are best spread using a spreader or sprayer.
One of the handiest tools for that purpose is a broadcast spreader. A tub on wheels with a handle and handlebars, it dispenses material out a series of holes in the bottom when the user walks forward and squeezes a lever. A dial allows the user to set the amount spread by adjusting the size of the holes.
To use a broadcast spreader is simple, if a few simple guidelines are followed.
The first step is to read the directions carefully on the package of material to be dispensed. The directions will state the setting needed for that compound and when it can be applied. Some should be applied, then watered into the soil. Others will become ineffective if rain follows within 24 hours. Applying too little results in the failure to kill weeds or green up or failure to kill pests. Too much can lead to burned lawns and wasted product.
Most applications involve spreading chemicals that can be potentially harmful to skin, eyes or lungs. Herbicides and most pesticides fall into that category. Wear proper gloves (often neoprene gloves do the job) and if necessary a mask.
A simple test can help determine whether the amount is what’s desired. Clear the driveway of gravel and dirt and dispense an amount in some part of a rectangular spiral, for a dozen feet per side or so. The package will usually give information about how much is laid down for a particular setting. Just compare. The dials and hole systems are usually well manufactured so you have little to worry about.
Adjust the dial according to your test and note that broadcast spreaders fling material in a wide arc (usually 180 degrees), about 5-10ft. The distance depends on how fast you push, since the wheel and axle are connected to the mechanism that throws the compound out. The faster you push, the farther it goes.
Keep in mind that the pattern will dispense a large amount of material over a wide area. If you need to be more precise, use a drop spreader instead. Drop spreaders simply open the holes and allow gravity to dispense the material.
They’re ideal for areas near the edge of a lawn, such as near sidewalks. But, since they’re only about two feet wide, they can’t cover an area as quickly. Also, it’s necessary to use a drop spreader very carefully in order to avoid overlap or gaps.
Many broadcast spreaders are designed to overcome that problem to a degree by flinging more to one side than the other. This way, it’s possible to get fairly close to the edge without throwing material onto the sidewalk. Which side that is, and whether yours works that way, is easy to observe during your test.
From here on, the task is easy. Simply walk up and down the lawn along rows as if you were plowing a field. Or, walk around in a rectangular spiral. Start at the center and work out, but take care not to overlay too much material where it’s been dispensed already. As you make a turn, briefly release the lever. Then once you’ve made the 90 degree left or right hand turn, clamp it to begin dispensing again.
Keep the tub close to level to avoid flinging material too high up or (worse) at too low an angle into the ground. The dial settings assume a level dispersion pattern.
February 20, 2009 at 5:57 pm · Filed under Roses
Looking for a colorful way to make a grand statement? If you like to putter around in the garden, then do what the nobles of the past did and surround your home with rose trees. Doing so will definitely add an air of elegance to any landscape.
Rose trees, also known as Rose Standards, differ from rose plants or rose shrubs in that they are actually cultivated to resemble a tree. A rose tree consists of a long, slender cane, 32 ñ 36 inches (about 1 meter) in length, void of any foliage from which an abundance of rose flowers literally burst forth. The ‘tree’ is created by making two grafts: one at the top of the central cane to support the hybrid tee, grandiflora or floribunda and one at the bottom, at the rootstock.
Miniature rose trees are created in a similar manner, the difference being that the central cane measures only approximately 24 inches. Whether regular-sized or miniature, the end result is a unique rose that has the shape of a lollipop.
To endure the weight of the grafted rose on top, the central cane usually must be staked. Staking is especially important in areas prone to wind. Another problem with rose trees, besides the usual pests and diseases that plague all roses, is the sun. The cane part of the tree rose is especially susceptible to sun scald.
During the winter months it’s difficult to protect rose trees from the cold. With regular roses, all that’s required to prepare for winter is a layer of mulch around the base. But with the rose tree, to be protected from the cold, mulch must be placed all the way up the cane. The only way to accomplish this is either by relocating the rose tree during the winter, or by engineering a container made from wire mesh to surround the cane that can be filled with mulch.
Besides the seasonal care, growers have to diligently prune rose trees to achieve the right look. The central cane should never be pruned, only the flowering top part. How you prune will depend on the type of rose that sits atop the cane so know the right way before beginning. Improperly pruned roses, regardless of type, are more prone to diseases. And with the rose tree, it can cause an uneven distribution of weight that could break the stems.
You’ll find several different species of rose trees. The newest to hit the market is the ‘double decker’ rose tree that produces two layers of flowers. One is on top, as you would normally expect to see, and the other layer begins closer to the ground although this layer is not considered ground covering. Yellow Ribbons Double Decker is a beauty. Another popular rose tree is the ‘weeping’ tree where arched rose stems overflowing with roses cascade towards the ground. The Roseberry Blanket Weeping Tree Rose produces large-sized fuchsia blooms.
Even though Rose Standards require more attention, the attention they’ll get when they’re established and in full bloom is well worth the effort. They’ll add height to your garden and bursts of vibrant color throughout your landscape.
February 20, 2009 at 5:53 pm · Filed under Roses
Old Garden Roses are any of the rose varieties that were recognized and celebrated prior to 1867, the year in which the first modern flower was introduced. The name of this flower is the hybrid tea. The major classes of Old Garden Roses include: bourbons, noisettes, portlands, species, centifolias, albas, chinas, damasks, hybrid perpetuals, moss roses, gallicas, and teas. Although some of these roses are native to the United States, the majority are from Europe and Asia. The roses that are often referred to as “Old Fashioned,” or “Antique Roses,” have actually served as the predecessors to some of the most beautiful modern hybrids.
Unlike Modern Roses, which are applauded for their vibrant colors, compact buds, and recurrent blooming, ‘Old Fashioned’ Roses are usually pastel in color and are single blooming. Their much-anticipated annual blooms have come to symbolize the arrival of summer.
These flowers are true survivors. Most Old Garden Roses are hardy even in some of the coldest and poorest weather conditions. It’s as if they can withstand anything. Their versatility can rarely be matched by other classes of roses. Despite their durability and strength, these roses flourish best when planted in a favorable situation. The roses require a minimum of six hours in direct sunlight on a daily basis. The ideal location for your Old Garden Roses is an open area, away from shade-producing trees. The soil in this area should be well-drained and fertilized prior to planting.
While many people ignore the fertilization process, soil preparation is a very important element in growing healthy beautiful roses. You should add a large quantity of organic material such as manure to the flower bed prior to planting. The fertilizer will enrich the soil and aid in water drainage. It’s highly recommended that you prepare your garden several months in advance to allow the nutrients to settle. Your Old Garden Roses will prosper in this rich environment.
Once your flower bed is prepared, you’re ready to begin planting your roses. Although it’s a little dirty, it’s a very easy task. Dig a hole about eight inches deep. Remove the plant from its plastic pot. Carefully untangle any loose roots and place the plant directly into the hole. Fill any remaining space with loose soil. You won’t need any soil additives at this time. Just be sure to saturate the ground with water. Your new plant will require water on a daily basis for three weeks. If the ground looks like it’s very dry, give your plant a quick shower.
Although many people don’t like the appearance of mulch, it can truly be a gardener’s best friend. Mulch really helps to repel weeds. It’s also great for holding moisture, which encourages your flowers to bloom radiantly in the summer months. Don’t worry about diseases unless you see strange spots on the foliage. Although Old Garden Roses have been known to be disease resistant, it doesn’t mean they’re 100% disease-free. However, it’s very rare that a disease will debilitate these plants. They’re extremely tough and very self-maintaining.
If you’re looking for something new to plant in your rose garden, select any of the Old Garden Rose varieties. The blooms and fragrances will please your senses and are the reasons why these roses have withstood the test of time.
February 20, 2009 at 5:49 pm · Filed under General
Although there is no one set of “official” classification system of roses, there are many different popular rose classification schemes that are employed throughout the world. The most popular of the systems in use has been proposed by The American Rose Society in cooperation with the World Federation of Roses. Although this classification system is not the only one in use, a large majority of internationally established societies have adopted this scheme for classifying roses.
According to the American Rose Society, there are three main groupings of roses: the Species; Old Garden Roses; and Modern Roses. Species Roses, the origin of every other rose class, are commonly referred to as “wild roses.” These “wild roses” are easy to identify, as they normally have five petals, are once-blooming, and are generally thorny shrubs or climbers. Several popular Species Roses include: Cherokee Roses, Dog Roses, Gallic Roses, French Roses, and Redleaf Roses. Species Roses can be found throughout the Northern Hemisphere, as they flourish in temperate climates.
Unlike Species Roses, which existed millions of years before man walked the earth, Old Garden Roses are identified as a major class of roses recognized before 1867.
Most Old Garden Roses bloom once per season, usually at the arrival of summer. Old Garden Roses occur in a variety of shrub and vine sizes. Although colors vary, Old Garden Roses are typically white or pastel in color. These “antique roses” are generally preferred for lawns and home gardening because they are easy to care for. Several groupings of roses are classified as Old Garden Roses including: China, Tea, Moss, Damask, Bourbon, Hybrid Perpetual and Noisette roses. Many “antique roses” have a strong sweet scent, which makes them very desirable.
Old Garden Roses are the predecessors of Modern Roses. Any rose which has been identified post 1867 is considered a Modern Rose. This group of roses are very popular. The Modern Rose is the result of cross breeding the hybrid tea with the polyanthus. The colors of a Modern Rose are lovely, rich and vibrant. Most of the roses found in this class flower repeatedly when cared for properly. Perhaps that is why horticulturists find this class so attractive. The most popular roses found in the class of Modern Roses are the hybrid tea, floribunda, and grandiflora. Although Modern Roses are adored by florists and gardeners, they do not adapt well to colder environments.
After a rose has been classified according to the three main groupings, a rose can then be further classified by color, scent, growth habit, ancestry, date of introduction, blooming characteristics and size. It is very difficult for horticulturists to classify every rose, especially the hybrid roses which often seem like a grouping of their own. While there has been much debate on classifying roses, the American Rose Society appears to have the most functional system for these stages of classification. Perhaps this is why the American Rose Society’s classification system has been adopted by so many rosarians the world over.
February 19, 2009 at 2:24 pm · Filed under Herbs
What good is an herb you can’t eat or use as medicine? Well, it’s certainly true that the majority are useful, in the sense that they make a fine seasoning or provide a cure. But some things are valuable that have no ‘use’ at all, other than to simply look beautiful.
Many herbs are better grown for their use in potpourri or as tools for the chef. They’re beneficial, but visually dull. In the world of herbs there are dozens of such plants, and many that are tasty or healthful. But there are also many that provide a pleasant view.
Hyssop is a hardy perennial that grows up to two feet tall and blossoms with an array of blue flowers. While often used as the base of a tea, they make for a fine ornament in the garden. It doesn’t hurt that they also have a lovely fragrance. Bees like them, too. There’s a dwarf type that makes for a delightful variation, and there are ones that grow pink flowers instead.
Licorice may be a great treat for the tongue, but the plant makes for a beautiful addition to the garden. Light green or gray, they have fuzzy leaves and can thrive well in a basket, as well. This herb loves sun and well-draining soil, and can be brought indoors during winter. Outside they may last only one season.
There are types of Oregano that do more than just provide a great seasoning. The Dittany of Crete plant has wide, fuzzy leaves and pink flowers. Perfect for window boxes, they’re easy to grow and maintain. A related type called Variegated Oregano has small, thin, bushy leaves. Not ideal for the chef, these ornamental herbs are perfect for adding a display of liveliness.
Lavender, of course, is a perennial favorite thanks to its lovely flowers and delicate scent. The leaves have serrated edges and they provide wonderful low ground cover in a garden. The soft green leaves and purple flowers add a touch of elegant beauty wherever they’re planted.
Myrtle comes in a variety of lovely types, dwarf and regular-sized. The full-sized tree grows to several feet. Dark green leaves and small, white flowers give this herb a delicate smell and an equally delightful appearance. Variegated myrtle is a nice relation, with its tiny yellow and green leaves along the stem.
Chamomile is famous for its use in making a soothing tea, but the daisy-like flowers are pretty, too. The plant makes for an excellent addition to a small garden right next to the other herbs.
Basil may be used mostly as a seasoning, but the purple foliage and pink flowers make this herb a delight to the eye as well as the tongue. Easy to grow, this 1-2 foot beauty often produces white blossoms as well. There’s a variety called Minette that makes a fine small bush that can fill out a garden bare spot or thrive well in a basket.
When you think of herbs, don’t stop at cooking or medicine. Explore their use as colorful additions to the garden, indoors and out.
February 19, 2009 at 2:24 pm · Filed under Herbs
Herbs require very little care compared to many plants. How many times have you had to spray your roses or trim your orchids? Herbs, by comparison, do well in poor soil, require little fertilizer and only modest watering. If they get lots of sun and a bit of water, they usually do well all on their own.
But you’ll still want to do some planning before just throwing down seeds and walking away.
For one thing, since herbs thrive well in relatively poor conditions, they can become overgrown. Lavender will spread, Yarrow can take over large areas. Even Chives can get bushy and packed. Make sure you start with adequate space in your pot or garden for the number of plants you have in mind.
Most will get along fine if they have about a foot of space between major sections. Chives, for example, look great and grow well in a bunch. But the roots still need a certain amount of nutrient and water. Other plants nearby compete for those.
Also, in order for adequate sunlight to reach the plants, they’ll need a certain amount of area, alongside them and within them. Planting too many within a confined space will make that difficult. Thinning may be required later as more plants than you expected develop.
Soil preparation is minimal for herbs, but minimal doesn’t mean non-existent. A good compost or mix of sandy loam and clay will support a wide range of herbs. You’ll want to make sure it has adequate drainage. Many herbs are originally natives of the Mediterranean, so they’ll do well in rocky, relatively dry soil. They evolved in conditions of good drainage. But all herbs need some water. It should be moist, but not wet.
Lavender and Sage, just to pick two, can get by in most areas with no manual watering at all. The occasional rainfall is enough. Peppermint will want a little more, which can easily be supplied by an automatic drip system.
You’ll want to minimize weeds, possibly by laying down some landscape fabric. You’ll want to avoid having to dig weeds up later or deal with the problem by using herbicides. That can kill the herbs along with the weeds (many are biologically similar). It also means you’re spraying chemicals onto plants that you may later plan to eat.
Herbs resist insects well, but you may want to help by being prepared to sacrifice some for the sake of preserving others. Dill will make for a good ‘trap crop’, this is one which attracts pests away from other plants such as tomatoes. If your goal is growing Dill, a small amount of insecticide will take care of the problem, but use the minimum possible.
Plan when you want to plant by judging which herbs will do well by beginning at various times of year. Some can be sown anytime, others should be planted at intervals of four weeks, still others should begin as early as possible after the snows melt.
Plan ahead and you’ll find your herb garden easy to care for and thriving with very little effort.
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